Colorado winters are beautiful…and mildly chaotic. One day it’s sunny and 55, the next it’s a deep freeze with sideways snow. While we’re grabbing another layer, your landscape is left to handle the elements on its own.
The good news? A little preparation can go a long way. Knowing how to prepare your yard for winter can help protect your lawn, trees, shrubs, and garden beds from the stresses of Colorado’s cold, dry winter. From aerating your lawn and winterizing your irrigation system to protecting trees, shrubs, and garden beds, a few smart steps in fall can help your landscape weather winter and come back stronger in spring.
Table of Contents
TL;DR: How Do I Prepare My Yard for Winter?
Why Winter Landscaping Preparation & Protection Matters
Winter may look calm on the surface, but below the snow, your landscape is working overtime to survive. As temperatures drop, plant growth slows, soil begins to freeze, and moisture becomes harder for roots to access. Add in Colorado’s dry air, strong winds, heavy snow, intense winter sun and sudden temperature swings, and even well-established landscapes can experience stress or damage without proper preparation.
The good news? Winter doesn’t have to be a death sentence for your yard. Snow can actually act as insulation, helping regulate soil temperatures and protect roots — but only when plants are healthy and supported going into the season. Taking a few proactive steps before and during winter helps prevent broken branches, root damage, and lawn issues, setting your landscape up for a stronger, faster recovery come spring.
Get Your Yard Ready Before the First Freeze
The best time to prepare your landscape for winter is before winter arrives. Once the ground freezes and temperatures plunge, some tasks become much harder to complete.
Give Your Lawn a Fall Tune-Up
Aerate Compacted Turf
If your lawn has experienced heavy foot traffic during the growing season, fall is a good time to consider aeration. Aeration reduces soil compaction and creates pathways for water, air, and nutrients to reach the grass roots.
A less-compacted lawn is better positioned to head into winter healthy and ready for spring growth.
Fertilize for Winter
Fall fertilization can help replenish nutrients used during the growing season and prepare plants for the months ahead. But, your lawn and your trees have different nutritional needs so don’t reach for the same bag of fertilizer for everything in the yard.
Fertilizing Turfgrass
The three macronutrients turfgrass uses are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Each plays a different role in plant health, but nitrogen is especially important for turfgrass because it is used in large quantities to support leaf growth, chlorophyll production, and overall plant development.
You’ll often see fertilizer bags labeled with three numbers, such as 32-0-8. These numbers represent the percentage, by weight, of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer. So, a 50-pound bag of 32-0-8 contains 16 pounds of nitrogen.
Why does nitrogen get so much attention? Turfgrass uses it abundantly and nitrogen isn’t readily available in many Colorado soils in the quantities grass needs. Phosphorus and potassium are naturally present in many soils, so soil conditions and testing can help determine whether additional amounts are actually needed.
A properly timed fall fertilizer application can help replenish nutrients used during the growing season and support healthy turf as it prepares for winter. The goal isn’t simply to make your lawn as green as possible. It’s to give the grass the resources it needs to enter dormancy in good condition and be ready to resume growth when spring arrives.
Fertilizing Trees
Trees have a different nutritional game plan. Unlike turfgrass, trees aren’t looking for a quick flush of leafy growth. The goal of tree fertilization is to provide nutrients that support healthy roots, canopy development, and long-term tree health.
In Colorado, soil conditions can make this a little more complicated. Rocky or alkaline soils, compacted areas, limited organic matter, drought, and competition from turfgrass can all affect how readily nutrients are available to trees. In some cases, a tree may show signs of nutrient deficiency even when nutrients are technically present in the soil.
Fall can be an effective time to fertilize trees because roots can continue growing after the leaves begin to drop and before the soil freezes. During this period, the tree can direct more resources toward root growth and nutrient storage rather than producing new leaves and shoots.
That doesn’t mean every tree needs fertilizer every fall. Healthy trees growing in healthy soil may not need additional nutrients, and fertilizer won’t fix problems caused by drought, disease, insects, poor planting, or root damage. In fact, applying too much fertilizer can create additional stress.
Want to dig deeper into tree nutrition? Front Range Arborists’ Tree Fertilization 101 explains when trees benefit from fertilizer, how Colorado’s soil affects nutrient availability, and why the right treatment depends on the individual tree.
Not sure what your trees need? If you have questions or concerns about tree health or fertilization, Front Range Arborists offers free tree health evaluations. Their arborists can take a closer look at your trees and help determine what care, if any, they need.
Give Your Lawn a Winter-Ready Mow
Before putting the mower away for the season, give your lawn one last cut. Keeping your grass at the right height going into winter can help reduce the risk of winter damage.
Aim for a mowing height around 2 to 3 inches. Grass that’s left too long can be more susceptible to snow mold, while cutting it too short can leave the crown more exposed to winter stress.
Not sure how short is too short, or whether you should mow after the first snow? Learn more about winter mowing and cold-weather lawn care.
Winterize Your Irrigation System
One of the most important fall tasks happens underground.
Before freezing temperatures arrive, your irrigation system should be properly winterized. Water left inside pipes, backflow devices, and other components can freeze and expand, potentially causing cracks and expensive repairs when spring arrives.
Before the ground begins to freeze, the system should be blown out. This process involves blowing compressed air through your irrigation pipes and heads to ensure that most of the water is removed. Any water left in the pipes could freeze and cause them to break if not done properly. Our step-by-step video below will help you get started.
Hi, I’m Stephanie from Timberline Landscaping, and today we’re going to give you a brief tutorial on how to drain your irrigation system. This time of year, it’s very important to drain your irrigation system overnight when we get freezing temperatures. It’s going to help protect the portions of your irrigation system that are above ground. You can still turn your irrigation system back on during the day when temperatures warm up to keep the water going to your turf areas and other plant materials.
We’re going to start out inside of your house with how to turn off the water to your irrigation system. So here we are inside of the home. We’re going to turn off the water; that’s our first step. It’s going to be near to your water heater and other systems. Yours may not look exactly like this but should be similar. So you’ve got your main water shut-off for the house, which would be these valves here. Your irrigation system is going to tee off of that main line. So here’s where our irrigation turns off. You can see that here our valve is in line with the pipe, which means that the water is turned on to the system. So we’re just going to turn that 90 degrees to shut off the water. Since we’ve done it at the tee, we’ve only turned off the water to the irrigation system itself, which is going to keep the water going to the rest of your home.
So for our next step, we are out at our backflow. This is typically going to be on the side of your home. You’re going to have something that looks very similar to this. We’ve got two valves here; currently they’re open. We’re going to partially close them by turning them to a 45 degree angle. We don’t want to close it all the way because we don’t want to block that water in completely. We want to leave room for it to escape and move as things freeze. Next, we’re going to take a dime or a screwdriver and we’re going to turn our test cocks to a 45 degree angle as well. You just want to match it up with the angle of your ball valve. So here we’ve got two of them; you may have more of these that you need to open. And lastly here, we are just going to open our valve at the bottom, and you will see some water escaping to let that water drain out. That means that we now have this prepped, all of the water drained out, so that we’re good to go for a freeze overnight.
So for our third and final step, we’re back at the water shut-off. You want to have a bucket for this step. Right where we have the water turned off, we’ve got a small valve here. Keep your bucket handy because when you open this, water is going to come out. Catch as much as you can in there and just open that valve up. This is draining the rest of your system. So now that the water is flushed out of the system, we want to make sure we put this cap back on here nice and tight.
So now that your system is drained, it’s protected from freezing temperatures overnight. Here in Colorado where we are, it’s still very important to have your system blown out before we get some of those harder temperatures over the winter. That’s going to make sure that you’re protecting your pipes that are under the ground when that ground starts to freeze. For us, we recommend doing it around the middle to end of October to ensure that you protect your entire irrigation system. Thanks so much for joining us for how to drain your irrigation system.
A proper winterization typically includes draining the system and blowing out the irrigation lines with compressed air.
If you’re not comfortable winterizing your system yourself, this is one of those jobs where calling a professional can save you from discovering a very expensive spring surprise.
Don't Forget Your Water Features
Ponds, fountains, and waterfalls need winter preparation, too.
If you have a water feature, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for winterizing pumps, filters, plants, and other components. Some systems should be shut down and drained, while others can continue operating through winter with the proper precautions.
The goal is to prevent freezing water from damaging equipment or the structure itself.
Protect Trees, Shrubs, Container Plants and Garden Beds
Once the big fall chores are handled, turn your attention to the plants that will spend the next several months exposed to the elements.
Mulch for Insulation
Healthy soil is your landscape’s winter jacket.
Applying mulch in fall helps insulate plant roots, regulate soil temperatures, retain moisture, and reduce the effects of repeated freeze-thaw cycles. It can also help protect soil from the temperature swings that can stress plants throughout winter.
- Apply 2 to 4 inches of mulch around trees, shrubs, and garden beds to insulate roots and reduce freeze-thaw cycles
- Add compost in the fall to improve soil structure and nutrient availability, giving plants a healthier growing environment when they wake up in spring.
Pro tip: Apply mulch after the ground has cooled but before deep freezes set in. And remember to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and shrub stems. That volcano-shaped mulch pile may look cozy, but it can create a damp environment that encourages rot, insects, and disease.
Protect Young and Sensitive Trees
Colorado’s winter sun can be surprisingly intense, especially on the south- and west-facing sides of tree trunks.
One winter hazard to watch for is sun scald, which is a little like a winter sunburn for trees. During the day, sunlight can warm the trunk and cause the tissues beneath the bark to thaw. When temperatures drop again at night, those tissues can rapidly refreeze. The repeated thawing and freezing can damage plant cells, causing them to burst and potentially creating cracks in the trunk.
Those cracks are more than cosmetic. A damaged trunk is essentially an open wound that can interfere with the movement of water and nutrients through the tree as well as create an entry point for disease. In severe cases, repeated or extensive damage can threaten the health and longevity of the tree.
Young trees and trees with thin, smooth bark are particularly susceptible. As a general guideline, trees with a trunk diameter, or caliper, of 6 inches or less should have their trunks wrapped for winter protection.
Tree wrap can help shield the trunk from intense winter sun and reduce the rapid temperature swings that contribute to sun scald. Wrap susceptible trees in October or November and remove the wrap around the end of April, once the risk of winter sun scald has passed.
Don’t leave tree wrap on through the summer. Extended use can create conditions that encourage insects and disease.
Choose Cold-Hardy Plants When Possible
Not every plant handles Colorado winter the same way. Young plants, newly planted shrubs, and cold-sensitive species may need additional protection from wind, freezing temperatures, and heavy snow. Burlap or frost cloth can help protect vulnerable plants in exposed locations. In other cases, indoor relocation may be the wiser option.
Native and climate-adapted plants generally have an advantage because they are better suited to local conditions. When choosing future additions to your landscape, plant selection can be one of your best long-term winter protection strategies.
Planting for Winter Color
While winter is often thought of as a dormant season, it doesn’t have to mean a dull landscape. Selecting plants with interesting bark, evergreen foliage, berries, or winter structure can keep your yard visually appealing even in colder months. For ideas on plants that add color and texture all season long, check out Planting for Winter Interest, which highlights smart plant choices that look good — even under a dusting of snow.
Caring for Container Plants
Container plants have less insulation around their roots than plants growing directly in the ground, which makes them particularly vulnerable to freezing temperatures.
For plants that aren't winter-hardy:
- Move containers into a garage, shed, or sheltered location when appropriate.
- Group containers together to create a warmer microclimate.
- Wrap pots with burlap or insulating material to help protect the roots.
- Avoid placing vulnerable containers directly on cold concrete when possible.
If a sensitive container plant gets caught outside during an unexpected cold snap, don’t immediately move it from freezing temperatures into a very warm room. A more gradual transition, such as moving it into a garage or sheltered area first, can reduce additional stress.
Give Garden Beds a Fall Cleanup
Fall cleanup isn’t just about making the garden look tidy.
Remove annual flowers and vegetables once they have finished for the season. Healthy plant material can be composted, while plants showing signs of disease should be discarded rather than added to the compost pile.
Most perennials can also be cut back once their foliage has died back. But don’t feel like everything needs a haircut.
Ornamental grasses and some plants, such as Russian sage, can provide winter structure and visual interest when left standing until early spring.
There’s a lot to remember before Colorado winter rolls in. Download our free Winter Landscape Maintenance Checklist for a simple, one-page reference you can save, print, and check off as you go.
Keep Your Landscape Healthy During Winter
Preparing your yard for winter doesn’t end when the first snow falls. Colorado winters can bring long stretches of cold followed by sunny, mild days, so a little maintenance may still be necessary.
Keep Watering When Conditions Allow
It may feel strange to water your landscape in winter, but Colorado’s dry climate means plants can still experience dehydration after the growing season ends.
Did you know that on average it takes 10 inches of snow to equal 1 inch of rain?!
That means that snowfall simply will not provide enough water necessary for plant material over the winter months. Trees and shrubs, especially newly planted and young plants, benefit from adequate moisture going into winter. During extended dry periods, water on mild days when temperatures are above 40°F, allowing moisture to soak into the soil before temperatures drop again.
Focus on the root zones of trees, shrubs, and evergreens rather than trying to keep your entire landscape wet.
Don’t assume a few inches of white stuff means your plants are fully hydrated. Learn more on what your landscaping needs:
Protect Your Lawn From Winter Traffic
Snow can provide insulation for turf, but walking on frozen grass can still cause damage.
Foot traffic on frozen turf can crush grass blades and damage the crowns of the plants, potentially leading to thinning or dead spots when spring arrives. Try to keep people, pets, and regular traffic off frozen lawn areas whenever possible, particularly in frequently traveled areas such as walkways and pet paths.
Be Careful With Snow on Trees and Shrubs
Heavy snow can put significant weight on branches, particularly on shrubs and smaller trees.
If snow accumulates heavily, gently brush it away rather than aggressively shaking the branches. A little patience is much better than turning a snowstorm into an accidental pruning session.
Brush snow carefully and downward, taking care not to bend or break branches.
Watch for Frost Heaving
Freeze-thaw cycles can create another problem beneath the surface.
As soil repeatedly freezes and thaws, it can expand and contract enough to push plant roots upward and out of the soil. This is known as frost heaving.
Consistent mulching and good drainage can help reduce the effects of these repeated temperature changes.
Don't Overdo the De-icer
Salt and other deicing products can be tough on landscapes. When snow is shoveled from sidewalks and driveways, salt can end up pushed into lawns and planting beds. As it accumulates in the soil, it can damage grass and plant roots.
Use deiicing products sparingly around planted areas whenever possible. When temperatures allow, watering affected areas can help dilute salt buildup and move it away from sensitive root zones.
What If Winter Arrives Before You're Ready?
Colorado weather doesn’t always follow the calendar. Sometimes the first serious freeze shows up before you’ve finished your fall checklist. If a cold snap catches your landscape off guard, don’t immediately start pruning damaged plants.
Frost-damaged foliage can look terrible while the plant itself may still be alive. Wait until new growth begins to appear before deciding what needs to be removed. Pruning too early can remove tissue that might still recover and can expose healthy portions of the plant to additional cold.
You can still add mulch or provide protection after a freeze if conditions allow. And if you have sensitive container plants outside, move them to a protected location as soon as possible.
When Winter Starts to Let Go
When temperatures begin warming and winter finally starts loosening its grip, resist the urge to grab every garden tool in sight and declare war on winter.
Wait until severe cold has passed before doing major pruning. Look for live buds and new growth to determine which branches and stems actually need to be removed.
Then you can gradually transition your landscape into spring mode, giving damaged plants time to show you what survived.
A Little Winter Prep Goes a Long Way
Colorado winter is going to do what Colorado winter does. Snow will fall. Temperatures will bounce around. The sun will come out when you least expect it. You can’t control the weather, but you can give your landscape a better chance of handling it.
Aerate and prepare your lawn. Finish the last mow. Winterize irrigation and water features. Mulch planting beds. Protect vulnerable trees and shrubs. Clean up garden beds. Keep an eye on moisture during dry winter stretches. And when the snow arrives, give your landscape a little room to breathe.
Your plants might look like they’re sleeping all winter, but they’re keeping score. Come spring, they’ll remember how well you treated them.
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